Tuesday, October 22, 2013

North to Norway

Hei hei (as they say in Norway!)! I just got back from quite an amazing trip up north to the thinly populated Scandinavian country! Meghan and I managed to book some inexpensive flights to see the country we never thought we'd ever visit. Study abroad is all about trying new things though, right?

Friday night, at almost 12am, we arrived in Oslo and headed for our Air BnB apartment. It was our first time using Air BnB. Hostels in Oslo didn't seem too nice, so we went for renting a room in a woman named Ingrid's apartment near the city center. Her place was so small and quaint and made our experience much better than if we had stayed in a dirty hostel with random people. We had our own beds and own room, and could close the door on the cat so it didn't jump onto our beds at night (well, Meghan wouldn't have minded, but I'm no great animal lover).
The view of our Air BnB balcony!
 It was absolutely freezing when we arrived in Oslo in the middle of the night, but Ingrid kept her apartment nice and warm. It was so sweet of her to stay up and wait for us to arrive (at almost 1am!) and then ever nicer that she went over our plan for the next day and gave us recommendations on where to eat and what to see. It was great having someone point you in all the right directions, rather than trying to figure it out on our own. I'd love to do Air BnB again, because our stay with Ingrid was so positive!

After sleeping for about 5 hours, Meghan and I were up at 7:30am and ready to explore Oslo. We both dressed extremely warmly, since the temperature was about 28 degrees Fahrenheit, and set off down the quiet residential streets towards the coffeehouse Ingrid had recommended. We ended up getting a little lost, but managed to find it, and there found out that Norway was incredibly expensive! Who buys a croissant for $6 (35 Norwegian Krone aka NOK)??? Well, I did...

We finally found our way to the Sentrastasjon (Central Station) and bought our Oslo transportation tickets for the day. I knew that the Oslo Opera House was nearby, so I dragged Meghan to see this architectural masterpiece. The marble and glass building has a roof that pedestrians can walk all over, and it extends all the way down to the water's edge. You could walk on top of it when a ballet or opera was happening! It was a bright, chilly day, but the water sparkled and the impressive white building looked stunning next to the icy water.

The Oslo Opera House

Overlooking the water and a large glass sculpture
From there, we walked through the main shopping street in Oslo, Karl Johan's Street. It was already packed and not even 10:30am! It reminded me very much of Dublin, from what I saw this summer. Meghan and I passed Domkirke, a very cute church off the main road with beautiful trees. The church wasn't as spectacular as some of the churches I've seen recently, like Melk and Salzburg, but it was pretty.
Karl Johan Street
Outside of Domkirke
The inside isn't as impressive as other churches I've been into recently...
We continued our walking around the city, which was a lot smaller than we had originally thought and saw a bunch of impressive and interesting sites! Here are some photographs and captions of what we saw on Saturday morning. I didn't manage to get any good shots of the National Theater, Palace, or Vigelandsparken Sculpture Park because either there was construction or we passed by in the frigid air too quickly. 

Norwegian Parliament
At the end of the street (to the left) is Norway's National Theater and Palace (though that's under construction :( so sad)
Some statues outside the National Gallery. I was so excited to go and see artwork by Edvard Munch, who is the Norwegian artist who painted The Scream. The Scream used to be my favorite painting and I remember making replicas of it all the time when I was into painting (or when I actually had time to be into painting!). However, the National Gallery was CLOSED for the week and weekend we were visiting Oslo! It was the most tragic thing ever and I was so upset.

The Scream by Edvard Munch...THAT I SHOULD HAVE SEEN ugh. Instead, this was my face when I saw the closed sign on the National Gallery.
We saw Henrik Ibsen's, the famous playwright who wrote A Doll's House (Mr., I mean...Doctor, Zedolik would be impressed...maybe), apartment where he spent most of his life and the road dedicated to him. I liked this photo mostly because of the leaves, not going to lie.
Looking out towards the Aker Brygge port. Meghan and I had a great time looking at all the boats and finding starfish all over the docks! It was a strange thing to see...
I give Meghan full credit for this photo. She bought me a "Nobel Peace Prize" and had me pose outside the Nobel Peace Center with it. We're such polisci nerds.
Once we'd seen most things in the central part of Oslo, we took a bus to get out to Oslo's fjord. Norway is famous for its fjords. Granted, they are much more impressive in the summer when the weather is gorgeous and you can hike and adventure around by them, pretending you're part of Lord of the Rings or something, but even in late October, Oslo's small fjord was breathtaking. In case you don't know, fjords are formed by glacial erosion, where a deep inlet is cut out and the sea fills in, surrounded by high cliffs and forest-y areas and lots of other nature-y stuff, including small islands that you can travel to by boat (Animals aren't usually my thing, and nature isn't either). I wish we had more time to travel out to some of the prettier, more famous fjords in Norway, but perhaps that a trip better suited for summer!
On the outskirts of the fjord
In the woodsy area around Oslo's fjord in Bygdøy, Meghan and I toured the Viking Museum, since Norway is also famous for its Viking history, and the Fram Museum. I haven't done too many museums in Europe since being here, mostly because I'm trying to wait out tourist season in Vienna, but with such chilly weather, going inside seemed like a good idea. Too bad the Norwegians don't seem to understand what heating is! Both museums were quite informative, but Meghan and I learned most from the Fram Museum. The history of Arctic exploration was fascinating and we learned all about the courageous explorers from Norway and their finds. We even got to tour inside a gigantic ship (the Fram) used in an expedition (probably a copy though...), and see a Northern Lights simulation on the ceiling of the museum! It's a shame we couldn't travel outside of Oslo to go see the real Aurora Borealis. That's definitely on my bucket list for the future.

Learning all about Viking ships at the museum!
We ate lunch at the Hamma Hos Cafe in the middle of the forest. It was a combination between an antique shop and restaurant and was very quaint. It had received rave reviews, so we made sure to search for it and go eat. Too bad an appetizer soup was 198 NOK (that's almost $34!)! I honestly couldn't bring myself to eat there and spend that much, so I waited for Meghan to finish her pasta and sausage dish, though she said it wasn't very good. Food in Norway hasn't been the best so far!

Though the place was cute, I can't say I even sampled the overpriced food here...
Meghan and I wandered around the fjord for a while, by the water especially, but it soon got too cold for either of us to bear. My fingers were beginning to go numb! We hopped back onto the bus to the central part of Oslo and walked down to the Aker Brygge area. This area by the water is said to be one of the newest, up-and-coming luxury towns in the world. The recent New York Times article, 46 Places to Go in 2013, stated that Oslo's waterfronts were stealing the world's spotlight. It was actually this article, and a few others, that prompted our decision to visit Oslo! And it was gorgeous. We were so lucky that the snow that the weather channel had predicted was to hold off until Monday when we were gone, because the views across the water were pristine. It was like stepping into an old folk tale by the sea.
Walking down to the waterfront, we saw this impressive building. It was close to the Oslo Konserthos (Concert House)
At the Aker Brygge waterfront with Meghan, with Oslofjord behind us
Aker Brygge with the City Hall in the background (It's that kinda ugly brown brick building in the back...)
Though it was steadily getting colder and colder as evening drew nearer, we were determined not to waste any time in Norway. So, we made our way to the other side of the port to the Akershus Palace and Fortress. This 13th century fortress used to be a "seat for kings" and the central area of the government when Oslo used to be called Christiania. Buildings were erected here over a 700 year period and the structure still stands as an iconic and picturesque symbol of Norway against the beautiful Oslofjord. Meghan and I wandered around inside the fortress, though we couldn't go into the castle since it was past 6pm, took photos, and watched a breathtaking sunset over the Oslofjord and water. Being by the ocean is so peaceful and makes everything seem more relaxing, in my opinion.

Inside the walls of the fortress
In the fortress, with the fjord behind me!
The start of the sunset over Oslofjord!
Despite being cloudy, the sunset was so beautiful
Since it was basically dark now, Meghan and I figured out how to get to Schrøder, our chosen dinner restaurant. It took us a while to choose the right bus, but when we did, we located our restaurant. It was supposedly an affordable and traditional Norwegian restaurant, and Meghan and I were interested in trying reindeer and ox. Sadly, Norwegians think $65 a plate is affordable...so reindeer was out. Meghan did get ox though, and it wasn't bad, just a bit game-y. We ate quickly, though my salad was quite lackluster, and both decided that since it was literally so so so cold outside and we were exhausted from having hardly any sleep and walking around touring Oslo all day, that we would skip out on Oslo's Ice Bar, and just go home to the apartment. I had never been so glad to see my bed at 10:30pm. I told Meghan I'd stay awake, but I think I passed out before my head hit the pillow. It had been such a long day!

Unfortunately, we had another early start the next morning, and it wasn't to explore more of the city. We had a flight at 11:50 to Prague, not Vienna, and had to get to the airport on time. We packed up and said goodbyes and thank-you's to Ingrid and made our way to the airport. There was a traditional Norwegian cafe where they were serving heart-shaped waffles with cream and strawberry preserve. It tasted so delicious! I'm glad I got at least one authentic meal in Oslo!

Me and my Norwegian waffle with whipped cream and strawberry preserve! It was so delicious (although I was also super hungry...)
We had a long day ahead of us, and it wasn't one we were looking forward to. In order to truly experience traveling on a budget like the students we were, we got our trip to Norway for a very good price, by choosing the most inexpensive modes of transportation home. That included a flight to Prague and then a bus to Vienna, since it's only four hours away. We had a little mishap with booking the bus from Prague to Vienna on the Thursday before we left, but Meghan told me she had had problems and so on Friday we sat down and sorted it out. We didn't manage to get the 2:30pm bus back to Vienna, nor the 3:30pm, and the only available one was a 9:30pm! We definitely didn't want to do that, so we booked a 3:00pm bus to Bratislava and then an 8pm bus to Vienna from there. That would have given us 15 minutes between buses to switch, but we were sure we could manage...right?

We rushed from the Prague airport to the main bus station (and got to see Prague on the ride over!) and tried to get on the 2:30pm bus to Vienna anyway. It was full. Darn. So then we waited for our 3pm bus...only to have the incredibly rude bus woman point out that the ticket Meghan had reserved was for SATURDAY at 3pm, NOT SUNDAY. I had a mini panic attack, since I absolutely had to get back to Vienna for a presentation on Monday. I did not want to have to take the 11:55pm bus to Vienna, which was the only available one. As I started to panic, Meghan started to panic. The bus woman impatiently waved us away. Cruel. 

Meghan's panicking calmed me down, oddly enough, and I tried to figure out what to do. I asked the bus agents if there were any buses to either Vienna or Bratislava that we could get on, though they were completely unhelpful. And why does no one speak English in Prague?! Czech isn't the most common or universal language in the world! Basically, we could take the 11:55pm bus to Vienna (by buying a new ticket) or try and get a train for about 90 Euro or probably more since it was so last minute. I refused for it to come to that. I saw that there was another bus going to Vienna in 15 minutes and I thought to try our luck. Didn't work. Meghan ran to another bus bound for Budapest, stopping in Bratislava, asking if there was room for two. There was only one seat, so that one left, too. I noticed that there was a bus stopping at Bratislava leaving at 3:30pm and I was ready to try asking one more time, though Meghan was done. She wanted to just take a train. I persuaded her to wait ten minutes until 3:30pm when the nice Czech man who spoke no English said we could get on the bus, for free! WE WERE GOING TO MAKE IT HOME BEFORE MIDNIGHT! 

The journey wasn't bad, I was just praising all my lucky stars I'd managed to get on a bus towards our destination. Surprisingly, we even made it to Bratislava five minutes after our intended arrival on the other bus and managed to transfer to our 8pm bus to Vienna. It was honestly such a miracle we made it home. In one day, we had been in four different countries and seen Oslo, Prague, Bratislava, and finally (thankfully) Vienna again. It's so good to be home, though Oslo was beautiful and such a great experience.

Oslo Waterfront






Monday, October 21, 2013

The Hills are Alive in Salzburg!

One of the most amazing trips I've taken this semester so far has been to Salzburg, Austria with my friend, Steph. I think it might have been because it was just a day trip to a small town and not a city, and it was more nature-focused than touring other places (we were literally in the valleys between the alps!), and Steph and I did no planning whatsoever because I was busy hanging out with Dad the few days before. However, we planned that I would sleepover at Steph's apartment on Saturday night and then take the early morning train to Salzburg, which was just three hours away or so.

When I got to Steph's apartment at 11pm on Saturday night, she was in the midst of buying our tickets for the Sound of Music tour in Salzburg. The movie was filmed there and that made it a huge draw for people to visit the small town of Salzburg. As she completed the transaction, I quickly looked up clips of the movie on YouTube. Despite being a musical theater person for the better part of five years, I've never seen "The Sound of Music." However, I wasn't about to deprive Steph of going on the famous tour, and I'd definitely seen enough pieces of the movie and knew a bunch of the music, though it's definitely not my favorite. Once she had bought the tickets, we received the notification: THESE TICKETS MUST BE PRINTED AND PRESENTED TO THE TOUR GUIDE. Good thing the IES apartments had no printers. After calmly freaking out for two seconds, Steph and I came up with various ways to print the tickets at 11:45pm at night on a Saturday. Our best bet was my suggestion of heading to Hotel Astoria, where I'd been staying with Dad, and use the computer and printer in the lobby without arousing suspicion. We set off on our mission at ten to midnight, laughing about how insane the idea was.

Twenty minutes later, we were sprinting away from the hotel with our printed tickets! I couldn't believe we did it, and weren't questioned at all! It was a hilarious and great start to our trip together. We woke up at 6am the next morning and made our way to the train station to catch the 7:30am train to Salzburg. It was an uneventful ride, with me sleeping most of the way. I'm sad I missed seeing Steph pour hot coffee all down her pants because the way she described it to me afterwards had me in tears of laughter. She's probably one of the best travel buddies ever.

As we got closer to Salzburg, the scenery became more beautiful. Mountains were starting to pop up on the horizon and the fields turned into valleys. The day was crystal clear and sunny. I couldn't be happier. When we disembarked, it was just past 10:30am and we walked to the Salzburg Old Town Downtown according to the tourist map we had picked up. On the way, Steph and I came across Mirabell Gardens. Steph told me that in "The Sound of Music," the hundreds of kids in that family ran around the fountain in the garden singing some song. So there were lots of tourists running around the fountain taking pictures. And these tourists weren't our age. We were by far the youngest people there! That was quite entertaining. But the gardens were stunning, with colorful flowers, trimmed hedges, stone statues, and a circular fountain in the middle.

Mirabell Gardens looking towards the town of Salzburg
Steph at the central fountain
Mirabell Gardens were beautiful
After walking through, we came across Mozart's birthplace. We didn't go inside the small museum, but visited a pretty church across the street. Apparently, Salzburg has 46 churches! It's incredible that such a small town needs 46 different churches! Steph and I didn't make it into all 46, but we did visit quite a few. 
One quite lovely and empty church we stumbled upon
We crossed over a river to get to the Old Town. It was absolutely stunning. It was such a warm day and so sunny that the river just sparkled in between the mountains and underneath. I can't really describe how beautiful it was, so here are some photos of the Old Town and things we did before our Sound of Music tour!

Central town square
Cafe Thomaselli, the oldest kaffeehaus in Salzburg, where Steph and I ate breakfast like civilized adults and people watched
Steph!
Most probably the most delicious mid-morning snack: dark chocolate and hazelnut covered gigantic soft Bretzel; an Austrian specialty. I'd go back to Salzburg just to eat another one from this awesome stand selling different sweet to savory flavors!
We stumbled across a Bio-Fest food festival!
We also had a fun photoshoot in the fall leaves!
Steph and her friend Mozart
Getriedegasse, Salzburg's most famous shopping street!
Overlooking Salzburg's Old Town
Our tour began at 2pm and we hopped onto the bus after a quick caffeine fix for Steph. We were off with 30 other people we'd never met before to see all the "Sound of Music" sites! We started with Leopoldskron Palace, which was the back of the von Trapp house. It was situated on a lake looking out towards the mountains and was so serene and beautiful. Then Steph saw the swans and fell in love. I had to talk her out of petting them, just in case they gouged her eye out or something equally horrible.

Steph and her swans


Back of the Sound of Music house
When I persuaded Steph not to pet them...
We went to Hellbrunn Palace Gazebo where that "16 Going on 17" song was sung. Everyone stopped for a bathroom break, but Steph and I ran around the gardens and made it to the Palace at the other end. No one else got to see it but we did (and we felt superior and accomplished, despite having to sprint to get back onto the bus in time).

The Gazebo (and our tour guide in her dirndl)
Folk Museum atop a hill overlooking the palace gardens...it reminded me a bit of Kensington Gardens in London!
Hellbrunn Palace
We saw everything famous and worth seeing from the movie, and everything was gorgeous. My favorite was when we left Salzburg and got to the little towns on the lakes, like the lake where Mozart's mom lived. Mondsee, another little town, was also gorgeous and after Steph and I visited the Wedding Church of Maria and her husband (having never seen the movie, I'm not sure who she is or who she marries...sorry) and got some "Holy Water" in a little alcoholic-looking-beverage-bottle, we enjoyed an apple strudel at the cafe where the children in the movie would sometimes eat and then ran down to the waterfront to take pictures of the mountains and lake (and us, of course!). Either being in nature or being with Steph made me feel like a little kid again and we had the absolute best time being weird and crazy and running around like kids. Maybe it was the mountain air!

Mozart's mother's lake...The most stunning view of the day 
Inside "Wedding church"
The town of Mondsee
As the bus tour ended and our dirndl-wearing guide waved us off the bus (I was happy to go because on the way back from Mondsee, she turned on all the "Sound of Music" songs to get everyone to sing along and everyone did, except those who didn't know the words. So basically me and one husband who had obviously been dragged here) and Steph and I made our way back to the train station. It had been a long day and the three hour train ride back wasn't super appealing. By the time I made it home to The Villa, it was past 11pm and I was completely exhausted. However, Salzburg was such a fantastic trip! It's probably one of the best and easiest day trips to do from Vienna, and I'd highly recommend going to Salzburg over Bratislava (obviously) or even Prague or something if you just have one day. Getting away from the city and relaxing in such a calm, country town with lots of history and culture was a perfect way to spend a warm, sunny Sunday in autumn.